THE LOCATION

After a nine-year absence, the return to Melbourne of this big brand - once on Southbank - on first glance is decidedly low key, with the entrance on Little Collins Street more boutique than big hotel chain. But you never know what delights you will find behind doorways around the Paris end of town. Flanked by history - Parliament House, St Patrick's Cathedral and the grand dame, Hotel Windsor - the Sheraton opened for business in April.

THE SPACE

Behind that low-key entrance is a bespoke carved limestone wall from Turkey, an intricate raised diamond pattern, and on the first floor the Little Collins St Kitchen, a light-filled space designed by Hecker Guthrie. With open kitchen, cosy booths upholstered in soft tweed, American oak furniture and an Italian marble bar it feels - in a domestic fantasy - that you might be a Parisian returning home from a day at the Orsay Museum. From the outdoor Terrace Bar, bookended by two heaters for all-weather cocktails, the city's historical markers can be admired. Over the rooftops there's the Princess Theatre and beyond the heritage-listed Royal Exhibition Building.

THE KIT

Rooms are plush and comfortable, with a velvet wingback chair that's worth sitting in, king bed and marble bathroom divided by a terrifyingly big bathroom window. Thankfully there's an electronic retractable blind if you prefer that room-mates not be privy to ablutions. And with the blind up you can watch something on the box, in fact a shmick LED smart TV. My grand deluxe king room has views to Treasury Gardens and the MCG. The hotel is not immune to that perennial traveller's gripe. In-room Wi-Fi costs $20 a day but is free in all public areas of the hotel. A 20-metre heated indoor lap pool lined with double cocooned couches or the lobby lounge with leather couches would be the ideal place to while away a rainy Melbourne afternoon.

FOOD

The hulking breakfasts of big hotel chains are absent and serving sizes are as they probably should be. Dainty pots, by which I mean a few teaspoons of Bircher muesli, and two-bite muffins are being arranged on beds of ice chips by executive chef Kruno Velican, who has made the move from Sydney. Lifting the lids in the hot buffet area is also a surprise; underneath there's roasted pumpkin, greens, freshly poached eggs in Chinese spoons and ricotta corn cakes. Dinner is also served here and you'll find braised beef cheeks, red quinoa salad, and farmhouse terrine with pickles, pear and mustard relish on toasted brioche on the menu.

STEPPING OUT

There are bars and food along the narrow street; next door try a glass of "sparkles" at the funky Lourinha with leather couches and palms, or a hefeweizen at the European bier cafe further along. A wander along Little Collins Street and its offshoots you will find Anna Thomas for fine women's tailoring, Sezar for excellent Argentinian and Postal Hall for a caffeine fix. For sport lovers the MCG, Hisense Arena and AAMI Park are a walk or tram ride; for high-end shopping Louis Vuitton and Prada are near.

THE VERDICT

A boutique feel in a big hotel, especially the Little Collins St Kitchen. A fine base for out-of-towners who love sport, food, the arts or shops.

ESSENTIALS

27 Little Collins Street, Melbourne. Phone (03) 9290 1000; see sheraton.com/melbourne. Rooms from $290 a night including breakfast at Little Collins St Kitchen and free Wi-Fi.

The writer stayed courtesy of the Sheraton, Melbourne.